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Deep Raglan Coat

Deep Raglan Coat Go back »
Details:
Type: Coat
Description:

Deep raglan coat with stylish ribbed collar and cuffs. Practi- cal pockets also provide a design detail. Fronts overlap to a three button fastening to one side of collar. An inside button holds the inner overlap in place. For extra warmth and style, the coat may be lined (optional).

Sizes: 16[18:20:22:24]
To fit Bust: 97[102:107:112:117] cm (38[40:42:44:46]ins)
Overall finished Length to nape of neck 84.5[86:87.5:88.5:89.5]cm (33.5[34:34.5:35:35.5]ins)

Figures in square brackets refer to larger sizes; where there is only one set of figures this applies to all sizes.

You will need:

Manos del Uruguay Wool Clasica 17[18:18:19:20] x 100 gm skeins in shade 2370 Mississippi
Pair of 6mm needles

Pair of 7mm needles
60cm 6mm circular needle
10 stitch markers or contrasting
pieces of thread.
Three buttons 3cm in diameter (choose buttons to match yarn or
for a more dramatic statement use contrasting designer buttons).
One button 1.5 cm in diameter (clear
plastic or to match yarn).
Note: Yarn amounts given are based on average requirements and are approximate.

Optional Lining:

Stretch fabric is recommended (such as jersey or stretch lining). Ensure that washing instructions are com- patible with ball band instructions for yarn.

WS = wrong side of garment
Dec 1 = K or p the next two stitches together
Mk1 = create a new stitch by knitting or purling into the loop below the next st.
Inc 1 = increase by knitting or purl- ing twice into the next stitch.
Moss St = even number of stitches, every row (K1, P1) to end. For odd stitches, always start next row with the same stitch as you finished on.
i.e. if your last stitch was a K, then start the next row with K.
Single Rib = even number of stitches, Row 1: (K1, P1) to end. Row 2: (P1, K1) to end. For uneven num- ber of stitches, always start next row with the opposite stitch to the one you finished on. i.e. if your last stitch was K, start next row with P.

Back

With 7mm needles cast on 92[96:100:104:108] sts using the ‘Thumb’ method.
Change to 6mm needles and work 140 rows in moss st, decreasing 1 st at each end of every 20th row (78[82:86:90:94] sts).

Continue in moss st until back meas- ures 59.5 cm.

Raglan Shaping

Keeping continuity of moss st, con- tinue with raglan shaping as follows: Cast off 4 sts at the beginning of the next two rows (70[74:78:82:86] sts) Decrease 1 st at each end of next and every following 3rd row until 26[28:30:32:34] sts remain.

Work 2 further rows straight.
Cast off remaining sts using a 7mm needle.

Right Front

With 7mm needles and ‘Thumb’ method, cast on 58[61:64:67:70] sts. Place a stitch marker through the last stitch cast on. This marks the side edge (on the left side with RS facing). ?
Change to 6mm needles and con- tinue in Moss St as follows (start- ing with a wrong side row):
Work 60 rows, slipping the last stitch of row at front edge, leaving yarn on the correct side to start the next row, and at the same time decreasing 1 st at side edge of every 20th row ending at the side edge (55[58:61:64:67] sts).
?

Pocket Opening
Row 1:
Moss St 24 sts. Place a stitch

marker or piece of contrasting yarn through the last st worked. Start a new ball of yarn (ball 2) and moss st across remaining sts.

??
Row 2: Moss st to the stitch before the stitch marker. Drop the yarn from ball 2 and pick up original ball to moss st across remaining sts.
Important: do not allow the two balls to cross or twist together. You will be creating a gap in the knitting which will later become the pocket opening. Repeat these rows until opening measures 18 cm, decreasing 1 st at side edge on 20th and 40th rows to keep continuity of shaping.
Next row, (end of pocket opening),
moss st across entire row with one ball of yarn. Break off second ball. (53[56:59:62:65] sts).
Continue working in moss stitch and decreasing on every 20th row until 51[54:57:60:63] sts remain (140 rows from start)
Continue in moss st until Front meas- ures 59.5 cm.

Raglan and front edge shaping

Keeping continuity of Moss St shape raglan and front as follows:
Starting at side edge, cast off 4
sts and moss st to last st, inc 1 (48[51:54:57:60] sts).

??

Work 47[49:51:53:55] rows, decreas- ing 1 st at side edge on 2nd and eve- ry following 3rd row and increasing
1 st at front edge on every 9th row, ending at front edge 37[40:42:44:48] sts).

Keeping continuity of these decreases at side and front edges, work button hole as follows:

Button Hole

Next row: Work 3 sts and place two stitch markers or contrasting threads in the next stitch. Start a new ball of yarn (ball 2) and moss st to end. Next Row: Using Ball 2, moss st to stitch markers, drop ball 2 and pick up original yarn to work last 3 sts.

Next Row: Moss St to st markers, pick up ball 2 and moss st to end Next Row: Moss St to stitch mark- ers, drop ball 2 and pick up original yarn to work last sts.

Do not remove stitch markers.
By keeping continuity of decreases you will now have 36[38:42:44:46] sts.

Neck Shaping

Size 150cm width width
16-20
2.5m
22-24 3m

115 cm

3m 4m

Optional Shoulder Pads

Two coat-weight shoulder pads to match coat or lining.

Tension:

14 sts and 27 rows to 10cm over Moss Stitch pattern.

Abbreviations: St(s) = Stitch(es) K = knit
P = purl

St st = stocking stitch (one row K one row P)
RS = right side of garment

Using original ball of yarn and starting at the front edge, Moss
St 12[13:14:15:16], cast off next 12[12:14:14:14] sts, moss stitch to end
Working on this last set of 12[13:14:15:16] sts, continue as follows.
K2tog, Moss St 1 to end.
Next row: Cast off 6[6:7:7:8] sts. Next row: Cast off remaining sts. With WS facing, rejoin yarn on remaining 12[13:14:15:16] sts, Moss St to last 2 sts, K2tog.
Next Row: K2 tog, Moss St to end Next row: Cast off 6[6:7:7:8] sts. Next row: Cast off remaining sts.

Left Front
With 7mm needles cast on 58[61:64:67:70] sts. Place a stitch
marker through the first stitch cast on. This marks the side edge (on the right side with RS facing).
Work as Right Front from ? to ? (55[58:61:64:67] sts).

Pocket Opening
Row 1:
Moss St 31[34:37:40:43] sts. Place a stitch marker or piece
of contrasting yarn through the last st worked. Start a new ball of yarn (ball 2) and moss st across remaining sts.

Work as Right Front from ?? to ?? (48[51:54:57:60] sts).
(Note that this will include the start of the Raglan and Front Edge Shap- ing.)

Work 48[50:52:54:56] rows, de- creasing 1 st at side edge on next and every following 3rd row and increasing 1 st at front edge on every 9th row, ending at front edge (37[39:41:45:47] sts)

Keeping continuity of these de- creases at side and front edges, work button hole as follows:

Button Hole
Next row: Work 3 sts and place a single stitch marker or contrasting thread in the next stitch. Start a new ball of yarn (ball 2) and moss st to end. .
Next Row: Using Ball 2, moss st to stitch marker, drop ball 2 and pick up original yarn to work remaining sts. Next Row: Using original yarn, Moss St to end.
Next Row: Moss St to end.
By keeping continuity of decreases you will now have 35[38:42:44:46] sts.

Neck Shaping

Starting at the front edge, Moss
St 12[13:14:15:16], cast off next 12[13:14:14:14] sts, Moss St to last 2 sts, K2tog.
Working on this last set of 11[12:14:15:16] sts, continue as fol- lows.
Moss St to end.
Next row: Cast off 6[6:7:7:8] sts Next row: Cast off remaining sts. With RS facing, rejoin yarn on remain- ing 12[13:14:15:15] sts, Moss St to last 2 sts, K2 tog.
Next Row: K2 tog, Moss St to end Next row: Cast off 6[6:7:7:8] sts. Next row: Cast off remaining sts.

Right Sleeve


With 6mm needles cast on 54[56:58:60:62] stitches and work 18cm of Single Rib.
Next row (RS): K12, K2tog,
*K11, K2tog* to last 1[3:5:7:9] sts, K1[3:5:7:9]. (50[52:54:56:58] sts)
In Moss St, increasing 1 st at each end of every 12th row until there are 62[64:66:70:74] sts.
Continue straight until sleeve meas- ures 36.5[37:38:39:40] cm from start of Moss stitch, ending with a WS row.

Raglan Shaping

Keeping continuity of moss st, con- tinue with raglan shaping as follows: Cast off 4 sts at the beginning of the next two rows (54[56:58:62:66] sts) Work 12[14:16:16:19] rows, decreas- ing 1 st at each end of next and every following 4th row (48[48:50:54:56] sts).

Work 42 rows, decreasing 1 st at each end of next and every follow- ing 3rd row, ending with a WS row (20[20:22:26:28] sts).

Size 22 only: Work 2 rows without shaping.
Size 24 only: Work 1 row without shaping.

With RS facing, place a stitch marker or contrasting thread through the first stitch. This is the front edge of the raglan.

Keeping continuity of decreases on every third row of back raglan seam, shape front raglan as follows:
Work 3 rows, casting off 3 sts on next and following RS row at front edge. (13[13:15:19:21] sts)

Work 7[7:9:11:12] rows, casting off 2 sts at front edge on the next and fol- lowing RS rows (3:3:2:4:3] sts)

Work 1[2:1:0:0] row straight Cast off remaining sts

Left Sleeve

Work as Right Sleeve from • to • (20[20:22:26:28] sts).
With RS facing, Moss St 1 row and
place a stitch marker or contrasting thread through the last stitch worked. This is the front edge of the raglan. Keeping continuity of decreases on every third row of back raglan seam, shape front raglan as follows:

Work 3 rows, casting off 3 sts on next and following WS row at front edge. (13[13:15:19:21] sts)
Work 7[7:9:11:12] rows, casting off 2 sts at front edge on the next and fol- lowing WS rows (3:3:2:4:3] sts) Work 1[2:1:0:0] row straight

Cast off remaining sts.

Pockets
Right Pocket Trim
On Right Front (the one with double stitch markers through the but-
ton hole) with RS facing and 6mm
needles, pick up and knit 30 stitches along right hand side of pocket open- ing (the side nearest the front edge). Work 8 rows of single rib.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Left Pocket Trim

On Left Front pick up stitches as above along the left edge of the pocket opening to mirror Right Front.

Right Pocket Lining

On the Right Front with RS facing, pick up and knit 28 sts along the re- maining edge of pocket opening. **Starting with a P row (WS) work 3 rows of st st.

Next row (RS): Inc 1, K to last 2 sts, K2tog**
Repeat from ** to ** a further 5 times.

Work a further 3 rows of stocking stitch.
Cast off using 7mm needles.
Left Pocket Lining

On the Left Front with RS facing, pick up and knit 28 sts along remaining edge of pocket opening.
*Starting with a P row (WS) work 3 rows of st st.

Next row (RS) : K2tog, K to last st, Inc 1.*
Repeat from * to * a further 5 times. Work a further 3 rows in stocking stitch.

Cast off using 7mm needles.

Finishing Pockets

On Right Front with RS facing, overstitch the top and bottom of the pocket trim to the coat front and fasten off neatly on the wrong side. With WS facing, pin the pocket lining to lie flat against inside of the coat front and stitch into place around the edges, avoiding any puckering. Repeat for Left Front.
Cutting out Optional Lining
For additional warmth and luxury, you may wish to line your coat with jersey (silk or synthetic is best). Choose a matching colour or black
to give good colour depth. Block each of the garment pieces to the dimensions shown in the diagram and press from the WS using a damp cloth, avoiding ribbed section on sleeves.
Using the garment pieces, lay the back garment piece on a single layer of fabric and one of the sleeves and one front on a double layer, making sure that the fabric is right sides fac- ing. Mark out the shape with either tailor’s chalk or pins, adding 2.5cm for ease and seam allowances and 5cm at the lower edge to create a hem. Sleeve linings should be cut to the length excluding the ribbed cuff, but add 5.5 cm for a hem.
Raglan Seams
Block and press each of the garment pieces from the WS according to
the ball band instructions, avoiding ribbed section on sleeves.
Stitch sleeves to coat back along the back raglan sleeves (the ones with- out the stitch markers).
Stitch coat fronts to front raglan
seams, being careful to keep the Right Front on the Right so that the larger buttonhole is in the correct place for the fastening.
Remove all stitch markers or con- trasting threads.
Press raglan seams from the inside.

Collar

Before starting the collar, wind re- maining wool into two balls.
With RS facing and starting at Point
A on the Right Front, Pick up stitches as follows:

From Point A to right front raglan seam: 41[43:45:47:49] sts.
From right front raglan seam to back raglan seam: 23[24:25:26:27] sts
From back neck edge: 32[34:36:38:40] sts

From back left raglan to front left raglan seam: 23[24:25:26:27] sts. From front left raglan seam to Point A on left front: 41[43:45:47:49] sts Total stitches: 160[168:176:184:192]

Work in single rib throughout as fol- lows:
Work 5 rows.
Buttonhole 1:

Row 1: Work 4 sts. Place a stitch marker through the last stitch knitted. Start a new ball of yarn (ball 2) and work to end of row.

Row 2: Rib to one stitch before stitch marker. Drop ball 2 and knit remain- ing 4 stitches with original ball.
Row 3: Work 4 sts with original ball. Change to Ball 2 to work the rest of the row.

Row 4: Work entire row with Ball 2. Work 10 rows.

Buttonhole 2:

Work as for buttonhole 1
Work 5 rows.
Place a stitch marker at each end of the last row (fold line for collar). Work 5 further rows.

Buttonhole 3:
Work as for buttonhole 1
Work 10 rows.
Buttonhole 4:
Work as for buttonhole 1.
Work 6 rows.
Using 7mm needles cast off loosely in
rib pattern.
Fold the collar outwards along fold line and, matching the buttonholes (buttonhole 4 over buttonhole 1 and buttonhole 3 over buttonhole 2), pin the two layers of the collar together on either side of the buttonholes. Note that the front edge of the collar will overlap the neck edge by just under 1cm.
Using a tapestry needle threaded with a single thickness of yarn, edge each buttonhole with buttonhole stitch through both layers of the collar.

Finishing

With RS together, pin and stitch side and underarm seams. Press from wrong side.
Lay the coat flat on a table so that the front is uppermost.

Position the right front over the left front so that the ‘point’ is touching the raglan seam and the neck edges are aligned. Position a button behind the buttonhole and stitch.
Position the remaining two large but- tons behind the buttonholes on the collar.
With buttons fastened, turn the coat inside out.
Lay the left front over the right front and position the buttonhole as before. Stitch the smaller button to the right front behind the buttonhole.

Sewing Optional Lining and Shoulder Pads
Put coat on and position shoulder pads. Stitch into place as invisibly as possible using a sewing thread which matches yarn colour.

Stitch the raglan seams of the lining, RS together. Stitch the underarm and side seams. Turn up 1cm of the hem to the WS and stitch. Fold 4cm of hem to wrong side, press and stitch. Stitch 1cm in from neck edge and clip the curved neck edge at 2cm inter- vals, stopping just short of the stitch- ing. Stitch clipped edge to wrong side.

Turn 1cm of front edges to wrong side and stitch down.
Turn 1cm of sleeve hem to the wrong side and stitch down.

Press all seams.

With WS of lining to WS of coat put the lining into the coat as follows: Slip stitch lining to neck edge, turning raw edges to WS. Put coat on a jack- et hanger which is the correct width for your shoulders and hang up with buttons fastened. Slip stitch lining into place 3mm back from front edge, ensuring the edges hang straight.

At buttonholes, clip the lining to the length of button hole and snip as shown in diagram below to allow you to turn edges under and slip stitch to the inner edge of the buttonhole, en- suring that the button will fit through the hole. Turn sleeves inside out and slip stitch lining to beginning of ribbed cuff, allowing the lining to drop ap- proximately 2cm over the stitching so that it does not pull.